Rassegna Stampa

31 Marzo 2010

DN Magasinet 31 march 2010 - The lady against the current

The lady against the current

Few female winemakers enjoys greater respect in the world than Elisabetta Foradori from Trentino.

When her father passed away in 1984, the 19 year old Elisabetta Foradori had to take over the family’s estate. She might had another carrier in mind.

– Just then I felt that I had no choice than to take over. Later on I can see that that was what I was created to do, say Foradori.

Trentino is located in the northeast in Italy, and it has been joint together with its neighbor district Alto-Adige, also called South-Tyrol, which boarders to Veneto in the east. Trentino is easily in the shadow of Piemonte, Tuscany and Veneto, when we are talking of Italian wine. Maybe it’s not that strange, since the wines from the area have struggled to show identity and character in the modern wine world.

In the 80-eighties more of the local growers wanted to pursuit international grapes as cabernet sauvignon and chardonnay, even if it meant death to local grape verities. Foradori started to plant the globetrotter Sauvignon Blanc, but she changed her mind when she saw the potential in the local grapes.

Back to the roots After some years of trying and failing, she was in no doubt: She wanted to go for the relatively scarce and unknown red grape Teroldego. Teroldego is genetically in family with the célèbre Shiraz and has the same qualities: Full body and round fruit combined with balanced tannins and its good cellar capabilities. The grape is only grown in Trentino, and the best appellation is Campo Rotaliano, were Foradori has all there vineyards.

– When I got to taste a 35 year old wine made out of Teroldego, I saw the light. It had cellared perfectly and it had lots of charm.

When Foradori started to study the Teroldego vineyards, she discovered that they were planted with a sort that favored quantity instead of quality. After doing a massive selection, where buds were taken from the best plants in order to change them with the old, the Teroldego is back at its old me.

– I try all the time to find back to the original style of the wine.

Since 2000 Elisabetta Foradori has converted all of her production to biodynamic, and the work now is done by Rudolf Steiner’s principals. In 2003 all of the 22 hectare was converted, but it takes five to seven years before you really feel the great differences, she explains.

– I have 16 different vineyards that all lay in the slopes. I treat them differently and I make them all separately before blending them.

The best and most complex goes into the Granato, its takes its name from the color of the wine. The others goes under and in the wine Teroldego Rotaliano. She also does the white wine Myrto, which comes from 80 years old vines of the local grape Incrocio Manzoni, it’s a hybrid of the more famous Riesling and Pinot Blanc.

– I mix in also Sauvignon Blanc in Myrto, but even if it grows well here, I wish less of it and more of Manzoni, explains Foradori.


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