Rassegna Stampa

8 Ottobre 2016

Il Sole 24 Ore Digital Edition

Elisabetta Foradori’s Fuoripista: Pinot Grigio’s exquisite whisper

by Claudio Celio

Trentino’s Campo Rotaliano, biodynamics and amphorae. The map to Elisabetta Foradori’s wine world revolves around these three cardinal points. Every time Elisabetta decides to launch a new project, she gets the energy and drive for it from these sources.

That’s how it was with Teroldego, then for her first Nosiola vintage in 2009 (a typical white grape from Trentino), and again with the white Manzoni she first issued in 2010. Elisabetta likes to focus her winemaking talent on varieties that are anything but widespread; on the contrary, they are somewhat neglected in the Italian wine scenario.

Her first Pinot Grigio vintage in 2014 resumes this trend and regenerates it. The Pinot Grigio variety has always been present in the region but wound up missing the boat where other grapes have sailed successfully: first the white varieties that yield Trento DOC sparkling wine’s millions of bottles, then red grapes like Teroldego, which have recently enjoyed a major rediscovery.

Fuoripista Pinot Grigio, Elisabetta Foradori tells us, comes from a collaboration with a biodynamic grapegrower in Campo Rotaliano who cultivates the two hectares of Pinot Grigio vines yielding the fruit that goes into Fuoripista. Terrain is silty and stony and the vineyard is around 30 years old.

The grapes rest on the skins in clay amphorae for over eight months, following the vinification protocol Elisabetta Foradori has set up. 2014 was the first vintage of this rather rare wine (only 8,000 bottles are produced), and the result is absolutely stunning. The color itself signals this is no ‘ordinary’ wine, with its light orange hue, almost dusty pink, which sets it distinctly apart from the majority of traditional wines.

Tasting Fuoripista is a very intimate experience. If there's a word that best describes this wine, it's ‘whisper,’ for Fuoripista (in spite of its name, [“off-track” in Italian]) comes into delicate, murmured contact with its taster.

Calling it elegant is reductive, since finesse is only a component, albeit a major one, to its character. Its essence may be in the wine’s delicacy, its near-ethereal fragility. The bouquet is a balance act of tangerine aromas, tea nuances and wild strawberries. On the palate, its light body (only 11.5% alc. by vol., the outcome of a rather cool vintage) perfectly matches the daintiness of the bouquet yet does not affect the long finish or the sense of fulfillment that comes from a second encounter with the tangerine and wild strawberry notes, combined with a distinctly mineral sensation. 

This is a wine that goes very well with food; you might try it with country pies or vegetable mousse.

Il Sole 24 Ore Digital Edition


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