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25 Ottobre 2013

Mounty Waldin’s Best Biodynamic Wines

Foradori, Granato Vigneti delle Dolomiti (Trenino, Italy)

Elisabetta Foradori is often described as a revolutionary but in her quietly spoken way she says she prefer to be known simply as someone who favours the natural evolution of things. Elisabetta wanted to prove to her neighbour that teroldego, a local grape, was being undervalued. In the 1970s local growers started pushing teroldego yields too high. The results wee all-but-flowerless, cheap, simple picnic reds. Elisabetta felt that teroldego should be made into age-able wines of distinction.
She replanted her vineyards with teroldego cuttings producing low yields of highly flavoured grapes, and fed her soils biodynamic composts rather than yield-friendly fertilisers.

Elisabetta ferments her teroldego grapes for her ‘Sgarzon’ and ‘Morei’ labels in clay amphora. Their low height makes il easier for her to punch the grapes down into the fermenting juice by hand, and their curved shape means the wine ferments more steadily than in vertically walled tanks. If this all sounds too retro, Elisabetta also uses traditional vats made of chestnut and oak barrels in which ferment and age the teroldego grapes for ‘Granato’, a red with feisty dark-cherry flavours. Although most of Elisabetta’s 23 hectares (57 acres) of biodynamic vines (Demeter certified) are teroldego she also has a small amount of nosiola, a rare white grape producing nettle-fresh dry mouth-wateringly sweet wines.

 

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